The dietary habits of people of any region depends on three principal factors:
a) Geographical, environmental and climatic conditions.
b) Availability and accessibility of food grains.
c) Health conditions and tastes of people.
Assam’s climatic conditions are conductive for the cultivation of rice, since rainfall occurs most of the time of the year. There are three varieties of rice grains available in Assam: Aahu, Saali and Bau. Therefore rice is one of the main agricultural products in Assam and it is also the staple food of the people.
Assamese people relish a variety of cereals made from rice like Chira, Muri, Aakhoi, Hurum, Pithaguri, Sandah etc. Pithas or rice cakes are a delicacy which are made from rice and has many types such as Til Pitha, Ghila Pitha, Pheni Pitha, Sutuli Pitha, Tekeli Mukhar Pitha, Pusi Pitha, Lau Pi-
tha, Khola Soporia Pitha, Kola Pitha, Jakai
Pitha,
Chunga
Pitha, Nangal Dhua Pitha, Bhurbhuri
Pitha, Pani
Pitha etc.
The dishing up of these delicacies is mostly done during the celebration of Bihu and other festivals related to it. The ability to make these sweetmeats is a sign of an Assamese woman’s expertise. Komal Chowal is also a delicious Jalpaan of Assamese Society.
Fruits also assume significance in the cultural life of the Assamese people as they are used in various functions and festivals. In most Assamese households, trees like mango, jack-fruit, varieties of bananas, guava, jamun, rabab lemon (a lemon peculiar to Assam), coconut, areca nut, amara etc. are a common sight. In religious ceremonies, the use of mogu, boot, banana and sugarcane etc. are a must.
Assamese people’s fondness of rice lends a variety of flavour to it. Joha rice, for example, is a favourite among Assamese people and depending on the grade or quality, jaha has different names like Nawabi, Kunkuni, Maniki Madhuri, Prasad Bhog, Maibhog, Mohan Bhog, Kharika, Tuni, Kola etc.
There are some green vegetables which are peculiar to this State only, like the Lafa, Mati Kanduri, Dhekia, Manimuni, Bhedai Lata, etc. Non-vegetarian food is common among people of all stratus, be it fish, eggs or meat of duck, chicken,
mutton, pigeon etc. There is no religious ban on the consumption as such. Fish especially with mild sour curry is a favourite among them. Likewise hot and sour curry are commonly prepared dishes. To add to their taste, many homemade pickles like Kharoli, Kahudi, Behua, Pachala are taken with the main course. Apart from all these, Assamese people are down right lovers of Khar (a dish seasoned with alkali). The word ‘lover’ may be appropriate for there is a saying Khar Khowa Asomiya. In fact Assamese are identified with this Khar and the literal translation of the saying would be ‘Assamese who take khar’. The preparation of this dish is a yardstick of a person’s culinary skills. People of this State also consume bitter vegetables like Kerela, Sukuta, Bet Ganj, Sewali flower etc. Rice is consumed in different ways like Bhapatdiya Bhat or Topat Bhat (steamed rice), Bahi Bhat (left over rice), Paita Bhat (fermented rice). The last kind is eaten with fried potato, brinjals etc. These can be had in their mashed form also. The various ways of having rice to satisfy the taste buds of the Assamese have made their food habits unique. Rules and regulations mark the consuming of these items. For example bitter items and curds are not taken at night, milk is prohibited after taking meat or fish. Meat and fish are generally not consumed on Amavasya, Ekadashi and Purnima. But such prohibitions are rarely observed in modern urban life. Medicinal qualities are attached to some of the foods consumed by Assamese people. These are Kolldil, Ponounoua, Suklati, Masandari, Helesi, Matikanduri, Doron Bann, Bhutmula, Neempat, Narasingha, Purakoll, Nefafu, Kunji Thekera, Modar Pat, Madhusuleng, Khutara, Hati Khutara, Banjaluk, Kolmou, Moroliya, Chazina, Laizabari, Titabahok etc. But the impact of modernity and modern medicines has reduced the use of such plants to quite an extent. But such food habits are examples of the knowledge and experience of the Assamese with medicines. The lack of food products, the influence of modern civilisation, change in peoples’ tastes étc. have rapidly and constantly been changing the Assamese ‘menu’. There are changes in the preparation of food also, thereby accounting in the change in food habits of the Assamese people.
Dress The dress of the Assamese people have social and cultural associations with it lending it a grace which is unique to it.Assamese woman in her traditional dressAncient texts like Kalika Puran, Shri Harsha Charita and paintings etc. have proper evidence regarding the apparel of the people of ancient Assam. During the Ahom reign, the Assamese dress witnessed tre- mendous change.
In older times, Assamese men wore Suria or Dhuti (loin cloth of a man tied round his waist) and women Riha-Mekhela. Generally speaking, the common people wore Dhuti or Suria which was worn above the knee. The middle class menfolk used to wear their Dhutis till their ankles. The upper part of their body sed to be converted by a garment called Chador. The Ahoms in- troduced Sola (Shirt), Chapkan etc. It was from the time of the Ahoms that menfolk started wearing turbans. Ahom his- tory has mention of kings and other high officials wearing turbans.
The wearing of Mekhela-Chador is an intricate process. The Mekhela is wrapped around the waist and pleated into three folds. The Chador is like the upper part of a Saree. Rina is a kind of scarf worn by women and it is a tradition
which is maintained even now not withstanding the pressures of modernity. Although times have changed and the influence of other modes of dressing-up have started dominating the scene, yet the originality of Mekhela-Chador is even now to be seen. It is a custom to present Gamocha to the elders and near and dear ones on ‘Bihu’. Assamese women have always been expert weavers.
The quality of the woven material is so fine that they can be dried in the shade and it could be folded in the fist itself. The Assamese men, generally speaking, have stopped wearing Dhutis except on occasions like Bihu or religious ceremonies. Trousers, shirts have replaced such a fine traditional way of dressing up. Rubber or leather shoes have replaced Kharam or wooden sandals. It would be proper to talk about Commorbandh can be called the precursor to the modern day belt. Whatever may be the case, quality and status of Assamese dress has always been unique.
Ornaments Assamese jewellers have al- ways been able to craft beauti- ful ornaments of gold and silver and also encrust precious stones on them. Men and women have always adorned themselves with ornaments. In the days of Ahom rule, menfolk used to wear ornaments like Motamoni, Biri, Magardana, Lokaparo and Kundal. Women liked to wear Keru, Kanphul, Thuriya, Nalak, Kharu, Angathi (Rings), Kardhani, Baju, Keyur, Nupur and Kinkini etc. With the passage of time, the use of An Assamese woman with her traditional ornaments such ornaments have lessened. Women now go in for less costly ornaments.